Here I show how to test a radiator cap without false results. A diagnostic tech has the tools and knowledge to prove their work, not just assume and replace. Falsely “diagnosing” a failed cap as the reason an engine is overheating will NOT fix the source problem and your customer will be back. Consider that each part of the system has its own function.
Amazon Link for Stant Tester: https://www.amazon.com/Stant-12270-Cooling-System-Pressure/dp/B0002SRGWU?SubscriptionId=AKIAJBFM5PIYLB7SLPOA&tag=h0f7f-20&linkCode=alb&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002SRGWU
Stant 12021 Small Cap Tester Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/Stant-12021-Radiator-Cap-Adapter/dp/B00180JQUQ?SubscriptionId=AKIAJBFM5PIYLB7SLPOA&tag=h0f7f-20&linkCode=alb&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00180JQUQ
Stant 12027 Small Radiator Tester Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/Stant-12027-Radiator-Cooling-Adapter/dp/B000P6WMM8?SubscriptionId=AKIAJBFM5PIYLB7SLPOA&tag=h0f7f-20&linkCode=alb&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000P6WMM8
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4 комментария
I have a 2004 mazda 3 that sporadically overheats. No coolant in the oil. New thermostat. I just did a coolant flush. Heater core is not plugged. No air in the system. It runs fine. Then just out of the blue, the temp goes all the way up. So I pull off the road and, as slow as I can with great caution, release the cap on the coolant reservoir. Coolant rushes back into the bottle. Along with a fair amount on the ground. I know. Unsafe for me. But when I need to get somewhere, I have to do what it takes. I'm leaning towards water pump of faulty thermostat. Right now, I'm sitting in my car with it idling in my driveway. Its been running for the last 15 or so minutes at operating temp but has yet to overheat. Its very sporadic. Some days its fine. Some days its not. But what I have noticed on occasion, is even after it sits not running for a few hours(5 or 6 hours), it will still have a large amount of pressure built up. Enough to blow the cap out of my fingers when loosening it if I'm not careful. Very frustrated with it. Any ideas what to check would be helpful.
this video is the only one that talks about the max pressure and the release back to normal. it made total sense so i tested my cap this morning since i still have the expensive loaner tool and nothing was releasing. this made sense since my radiator had just cracked and i just replaced it. the pressure in my system makes coolant leak out of what is probably the water pump. anyways i went and bought a new cap at advance today and brought the tool with and checked the new cap and that one wouldnt releive pressure at 16psi like it was supposed to but the kid working was just saying it doesnt matter as long as its holding at least 16. he thinks that it will just go to the res tank, but i was like isnt the system supposed to be sealed until 16 psi then release to the tank but he seemed pretty sure it just goes to the tank. lol it was frustrating but i replaced my cap last year and that one and the new one wont release pressure. the test kit says it should maintain the pressure on the cap and i showed the kid but he said thats only for cars without res tanks. confusing and frustrating.
My radiator cap does not even fit the tester cylinder… it is too small….What now??????
Thank You