I show testing ot see if the fuel pump check valve has failed causing a extended cranking time. Sorry about the dark video we have 2 lights in the shop with bad ballasts.
Смотреть в источнике
I show testing ot see if the fuel pump check valve has failed causing a extended cranking time. Sorry about the dark video we have 2 lights in the shop with bad ballasts.
Смотреть в источнике
38 комментариев
KEVIN, I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 2001 2.0 JETTA. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, GREAT VIDEO…! now how do you replace that valve
Thank you for the video Kevin … It is a good habit to replace the fuel filter as well once you replace the fuel pump (restricted fuel filter will create a back pressure which will shorten the life of the fuel pump).
Thanks for sharing the video! I have the same problem with my 98 Tacoma. I was almost positive that was it but didn't know how to check it. Can you take the hose off of the fuel pressure regulator any time while it's running?
you can add a check valve to the system there are a video in youtube about that .
great video thanks.
Thanks for the video. I am having similar issue on my saab 93. Will check the check valve soon.
Hey Kevin, I've got a 1998 Chev Blazer having exactly the issue you described. Do you think adding a check valve to the fuel rail would help? It's already had 2 fuel pumps within one about a year…now a year later, I'm getting the same issue again…
What about leaking injectors? wouldn't that do the same thing?
Kevin, any idea if this check valve in an 04 F150 can be replaced independently of the fuel pump or is it part of the assembly?
Hey Kevin! Im getting an instant drop in pressure when I turn the key off. I replaced the pump but still getting the same thing. Wheres the check valve on a 91 sunbird 3.1?
Thanks for that video Kevin. I too am having a hard first start to the day. So I did this test, but my gauge showed that the pump is holding pressure, or at least during the five minutes I was waiting for it to drop after shutting off the car. So I did a little more research and was told that my condition can also be cause by an injector leaking down into the cylinders, filling the associated cylinder with fuel and causing my rough start, but how can my fuel gauge show that its holding pressure?
It's the spped of the bleed off that's really the best indicator. In the span of 5 minutes you saw your pressure drop to nothing (assuming no video editing for brevity) A leaking fuel injector on the rail would show similar symptoms but take longer to bleed off the pressure as in an hour or more instead of a few minutes. Only way to know without a doubt, however, is to block off the return line on the rail (assuming a return system) to know for sure since then you'd be able to isolate the pump check valve from the rail to see what's leaking.
How can you test the check valve if the engine won't turn over? I have a 2005 Chrysler T&C, that it had an elongated crank time one day, then eventually started, just as you explained, & drove fine. The next day, it wouldn't start, just kept cranking, no start. A mechanic told me it was the fuel pump & not worth the cost to change it, due to the age of the vehicle & mileage. I just received in the mail an Extended Warranty on the Fuel check valve for the van, stating it would need to be replaced either at the dealership or they would reimburse for repairs already made. I asked the mechanic if it was possibly the valve & not the pump, & he said he doesn't think it's the valve, but didn't check it. Is there a way I can do that, to see whether or not it's worth having it towed to a dealership to get the valve replaced?
I'm not all that car savvy, so I don't even know if they are related issues.
thank you thank you thank you thank you for taking time to make this. 90 dollar hr info here!!!
Brilliant and thanks for info…
Springfield, VA
Hey, I have no problem mine starting but it acts like its starving for fuel and I have to open choke fully to keep it running
Ok video but would liked to see the restart after determining bad check valve…after all that was the problem covered…
I'm pretty sure this is what's wrong with my Mazda pick up
Very informative video, thanks!
Man, you don't know much you just helped me with this. hard start in cold morning and fuel pressure goes immediately to 0 PSI after shutting engine off. so fuel pump check valve, right?
Hi Kevin: My car will crank up on 1st turn but will have poor idling if I parked car for more than 15 hours. So what I do is every morning, I turn the key on position 2 for about a few seconds, then the car will start up normal otherwise it will have poor idle for about 20-30 seconds. Can I just keep the car like that without fixing the check valve since the car is old not worth throw in any more money. Let me know. Thanks.
Clear video, well explained. Thanks for uploading!
how to restart eng after out gas
Wow! Great information. Just installed a fuel pump on my Saab 900 Turbo. I've had this problem for a few years (fuel pump pressure). Just recently got worst starting up. Now that a new fuel pump is in, car still will not start. Question: My fuel pump fuse shows no output when car is switched on and probe light doesn't light. Isn't it suppose to light with this step.
just came across this video..and awesome job on explaining the whole lot.Nice video 🙂
Cheeeers from Norway 🙂
Fuel pressure regulator? One way to test bleed off is to clamp the pressure side and the return fuel side. If it does not bleed off then it's the check valve. If it still bleeds off then it's a regulator or injector(s)
Precise infos. Thanks!
Same problem here but it take a good 3 hours before the pressure drop to zero. Or a whole night.
great video kevin,I would like to see more videos using the scanner, since I have one just like yours,so I can learn how to use it too along with the videos,thank you cheers from ontario california
thanks good job bro
FORGET IT!!! READ 2JimsZR below!!!!!
I just had a new fuel pump installed. The OEM one failed after 15 years. Now I have a hard start problem and if I cycle the key to on a few times it starts right up….so I think its the check valve. So…being new, any chance the new check valve might start working…or should I switch out the pump? I paid to have this done since at the time the tank was full of gas, but this time I'm going to have to do it since re-doing the labor isn't covered.
$800 repair (I was stuck away and had to have repair). Instant start!!!! It was great. Now I have THIS bleed down problem. So far, my solution has been to turn the KEY ON, WAIT for the system to pressurize, and BINGO, it works. From everything I've read here, that is just an annoyance and nothing worse.
Great video..however not all cars have a external regulator. Therefore you'd be checking injectors.or replacement of the entire pump module thanks for sharing
Great video! Excellent explanation. Thanks for reminding us its bad on the battery. (who's being tortured in the dungeon at 5:35?) lol..just kidding.
Great explanation, thanks.
so the valve is part of the motor ?
I'm confused where the check valve is on the fuel pump and how it works with the return line. If I crimp the line after the fuel filter, the pressure holds. Crimp the return line after the fuel regulator and the pressure holds too but if it's a bad check valve I'd expect the pressure to drop even if the return line is crimped??
Thank you for this. I am having an issue with my truck not similar to your issue but I still wonder if it's the check valve. Under warm start conditions my truck has a very rough acceleration. If it's started from cold it will run fine.