The Tomos A3 uses a 10mm wrist pin with it’s piston and the A35/A55 and all of the Puch setups use a 12mm wrist pin. There’s a much larger variety of cylinder kits out there for the A35/Puch so the easiest thing to do is just press out the brass bushing in the connecting rod and push in a new one off a a stock puch crank. One thing to note, the brass bushing setup is really only good up to 8500rpms, if you’re gonna run faster then that you’ll need to have a new connecting rod pressed into your crank that can made use of a needle bearing.
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or… do it right and replace the connecting rod with a rito that has a 12mm bearing in it
are those cranks setting on toyota brake rotors?
I dont quite get it? If the end of the conrod is too small for a 12mm needle bearing without a bushing, how is pressing in a puch bushing going to help the situation?
Oh…ok i get it, the brass bushing IS the bearing on these conrods……thanks for the video.