Do you struggle with piston ring installation? Fear of breaking the rings? Fear no more. Here are proven methods for «how to» install piston rings easily and BONUS: Oil ring close up and theory.
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Harley EVO: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAtBOuPaEyt95-wqtiOFk3tzUW2VARbHI
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25 комментариев
What happens if piston ring not install properly…?
i am rebuilding 1981 honda xl185. i ordered a 20$ piston and had the cylander done to fit. then i realized i maybe should've got a better piston than i did. its only .15 over stock. should i get a better piston or use what i have. i don't wanna blow my bike up after all that work. whats your opinion on how to proceed.
Excellent Video as always..my question is, is there anyway to test you piston rings after honing your cylinders walls. I did a leak-down test on a few of my cylinders and found that a few of them were low 20 percent leakage. the leak down showed that the air was coming from the crankcase. so i took them out and hone out all the cylinder that were low. the pistons and rings are now back in which brings me back to my question above. thanks for your feedback
Awesome explanation. Thanks!
My ford was using 2 liters of engine oil for every 100km of driving.
It was very bad!
how about rung gap !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do not consider myself a better mechanic than anyone,but i enjoy watching videos like this that make perfect sense to me,and i would like to encourage other mechanics to pay attention to detail to these things,i really appreciatte videos showing real proffesionals showing us how things are done properly,thanks.i'm very pleased to have watched this video.i will keep it as a reference of a real expert
Very good. You are a natural teacher. I have learned so much from your videos, re-affirmed some things I already knew, and learned different techniques of doing things I already knew or done before.
IF you have the time and inclination, woul you pop over to my Facebook page to see my project status. I am restoring a 1982 Honda Goldwing GL1100A Aspencade. This is my first ever restoration if any vehicle. I grew up in a sevice station (my father's) and have been repairing vehicles all my life ( I'm a little older than you at 56, and I also have an AAS in Industrial Engineering). If you see ANYTHING or have any suggestion that might help me with this project, I would be eternally grateful.
If you don't, I understand. Thank you in advance for any possible instruction you may give. (I may even put up some rudimentary videos on YouTube.)
The method shown will work. However, it is also clumsy, time consuming and will scratch the piston ring lands or the piston skirt. Using a screwdriver or whatever to recover an OCR rail from the top or second groove is an absolute no-no. The girls on the assembly lines at the piston plant I worked at would flick a three piece ring on a piston in less than 20 seconds. No marks on the piston, all gaps aligned. The trick is simple. Install the expander. Push one end of a rail into position say above the top of the expander, twist it like a band saw blade and lay it into the groove. Do likewise with the bottom one. No over expansion whatsoever and they are designed to be installed in this manner.
Great vid indeed. The documentation of my original harley pistons shows the spacer ring positioned the other way around than shown in this video. Luckily I still had my old pistons for reference, and they also are positioned the same way as shown here. -1 for harley documentation I guess.
Your making this video for information but sorry you don't know how to install it fast and nicely. Your too slow.
nice video, not only learn how to set it up, but good service can be provided. good luck and thank you the author..
حیف این برنامه های جالب .که بزبان فارسی ترجمه نشده
yup
Great detailed video that was very helpful, but noticed one error at 11:59 others may have mentioned below, the top and bottom rails (and your marks) are backwards from the manual shown. Probably doesn't matter though.
And I have a question. I'm installing new Wiseco 0.01" overbore 103 pistons on my 2008 HD Electra Glide Classic. Contrary to what you show, I've seen a possibly older manual in a FixMyHog video, that puts the #5 top compr ring by the intake and the #4 2nd compr ring at the exhaust, with position 4 not being used and position 1 only being used for the oil separator ring (vs by 1 AND 5). Is your method the most recent and do you recognize the method FMH is using? The bike they were working on may have been an 88 ci going to a 96 ci but that doesn't necessarily mean it was an excessively old video as they could have done that this year. But my dealer's manual is from 2011 and it agrees with your method and looks like your opened manual page.
The Clymer manual I have does something different again though I'm not following that as it's too vague and actually made me lose faith in Clymer (perhaps unfairly as it may not matter as much as Harley says). They have the top compression ring facing the intake or exhaust — they don't specify but I'll call it the intake — the 2nd compression ring facing to one side I'll call the left, the lower rail facing what I'll call the exhaust, the top rail facing the right, and oil separator ring gap not even distinguished where it goes…..the gist is to keep them all separated but strange no mention of the separator ring. Also disturbing is no mention of any of the oil ring assembly details/concerns you mention which is why your vid is so important.
FINALLY, Wiseco's directions are totally nonsensical as they have the piston pin axis going front to back vs across. Maybe it's a generic drawing and other engine types like inline 4's or v-4's or boxers etc. do so. They don't mention intake or exhaust but say the top ring gap is at the rear, 2nd to the front, and top/lower rails and separator ring gaps about 60 deg apart away from intake/exhaust if you know what I mean. Again doing what amounts to the same thing. Any idea why so many different methods and does it really matter? Does Harley's manual mention the details you do with the oil rings like the overlap (Wiseco does, Clymer doesn't) and 'stacking the sandwich' properly? Regardless I'm heeding your advice obviously.
Another contradiction is Wiseco has a sheet saying twin cams are 0.04" ring gap per inch of bore so about 0.0155" for my bore. They say 0.015" for both top and bottom compr ring. But their generic directions say you can get top ring flutter if you don't have a larger gap on the 2nd compr ring than the top. I'm going by their TC HD engine specific directions as thankfully it's a lot simpler than filing down the 2nd ring to be larger. Dealer says it doesn't matter too and they say about 0.015" is fine. But Harley manual says top and 2nd also have different wear allowances and the min is more on 2nd than on the top. So they must agree with this top ring flutter idea but then Wiseco and my dealer do not. Confusing! Is it worth worrying about and when setting new rings do you in fact file the 2nd one down a bit? BTW the Wiseco piston kit came out to 0.015" in my bores.
Thanks in advance (forgot to mention Wiseco generic directions say 0.04" gap/inch is for ATV/PWC/snowmobiles/dirtbikes and 0.05" for most street bikes……yet the TC HD specific directions imply 0.04" as it comes to 0.015" top and bottom).
I have another seemingly strange situation with piston pins I'm going through right now. My stock 103 (SE kit on my 96) piston pins were hard to get out and needed a punch. The Wiseco's slide in smooth into their bores….is it normal that HD pistons/pins are that tight vs Wiseco? The machine shop is top notch and sent me a matching set of VT2791 Wiseco pistons (replaces VT2763), rings and piston pins with circlips. So I doubt they sent me the wrong pin. I could re-use my HD pins in my Wiseco's I suppose but would rather not.
Which leads me to another question (who knew it was this complicated?). The Wiseco circlips seem very hard to spin when in the groove. They get installed with the opening pointing near the pry recess pointing down and I understand the gap must point up. I very nearly gave up for fear of dropping/scratching the piston or damaging the rings I'd just so carefully installed. I barely got it to move a millimetre. It must have been an hour of fighting. I finally resorted to a hammer and screwdriver but that shouldn't be necessary. One finally move a bit at a time with some taps to the end of the screw driver while the other one only by getting at a weird angle and hitting the side of the screw driver blade. I finally got both pointing upwards and glad I did as I don't want to lose a circlip and have the pin come out (both terrible situations). But the stock ones must be a lot easier to spin i.e. are not as stiff/tight. Ironically the Harley piston pins are super tight requiring a punch and hammer when the Wiseco's slide smoothly right in there (but still don't rock around at all), but it's the other way around for the circlips I'm sure just to confuse me personally. My worry now is the second circlip when I mount the pistons on the conn rods…..the above drama was just while on the bench so optimum conditions. No I don't have a $150 circlip installer but see most people on youtube and even FMH uses just a screwdriver and fingers. I'm re-thinking that now and should maybe by one.
The above question is less urgent at this point than the below one about the ring end gaps and gap positions. I also realize you have a paying site but I'm already a member at FMH and they haven't answered one question I asked a year ago nor this very question yesterday. Maybe next year I should pay you instead of them even though I do love their site and videos…..I think yours are superior detail wise. The things you mentioned about that oil separator ring and top/bottom rails were mostly ignored by them (and Clymer and possibly even by Harley in their own manuals).
hello sir.. can i ask if that's okay to use flat head piston? i ordered china brand with the flat head piston
Wow, learn something every day! Just ruined a piston because of this. 🙁
Wow, thanks for posting such an informative video. It helped me out big time! 🙂
What's the ideal measurements for the gaps between the ends of individual rings when inserted inside the cylinder plus what's the ideal clearance around a piston that is inserted inside a cylinder? Someone help provide answers
I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2005 2.7L 120.000 Mi , the timing belt is Broken! I want to Bent Valves, and What About The piston rings, Do I change it? There are some said ! Must be changed .
Thank You for Reply
They are said when Lapping a Valves ,
There is pressure on the old piston rings and ,
Oil will leak into the combustion chamber
Is this what will limit true
what could happen if you don't get the gap set away from the oil drain holes ?
This is very informative. Thank you for the information, well done!
Sorry but made no sense at all