I connected the fuel pump and then manually pushed the control piston (which is normally connected to the air flow meter) up. If the valves inside the distributor block are not stuck, fuel comes out.
You can short cut the fuel pump and let it run without the engine running, so that you can measure all the pressures. Can you keep the engine running with the accelerator pedal? If not have someone else push a little bit on the air flow sensor so that it get's enough fuel ti run. Sounds like the injection system has stale gas in it and will probably run fine after some running.
If all that does not help you can remove the fuel distributor from the housing and remove VERY carfully the control piston, Then clean everything with acetone. DO NOT take apart the fuel distributor itself, only remove the piston from below. Also you can clean the injector nozzles with a ultrasonic cleaner.
@mikethebrick Hi Mike, all devices on the K-Jet have the same effect on all cylinders — except the fuel distributor and the injection valves. So if your engine is mechanically ok, and the ignition system is ok; and the engine is not running on all the cylinders, it's the fuel distributor or the injection valves. You can disconnect the lines going from the distributor to the valves, bridge the fuel pump so that is runs continuously and then push down the air flow meter plate.
@mikethebrick If you see visible differences in the fuel quantity coming out of the 8 ports, your distributor is not working correctly. You can try to clean it as I described below. If there seems to be the same quantity coming out of each port, remove the injection valves from the engine, connect them to the lines (hanging in the air) and see if they are all injecting. If not, putting them into a supersonic cleaner withpetrol and inj sys cleaner can do the trick.
@mikethebrick If they are all injecting, and still your engine is not running on all cylinders, there is a problem with the ignition timing or something mechanical like no compression, engine valves…
@RzXVeRSaTiiLe Don't take the fuel distributor apart. Afaik they have no gasket as the metal parts are mated together with the thin stainless steel plate of the distribution valves in such way in the plant, that they are tight by themselves. You can't do that yourself I was told, and I never tried…
I would treat the distributor with lots of carb cleaner, and mount new injection valves. Also check all the pressures to be sure it's not simply a pressure issue.
Old post, but that is not completely correct, I've rebuilt them fully, I used an aerosol copper gasket adhesive sealant when mating the parts back together… it does not always work on the first try, but it can be done with great success.
Good to hear it works for you! I don't doubt that it can be done with great success, but "it does not always work on first try" does not sound like a process I should recommend to users asking for advice in my channel, therefore I recommend to them to not take apart the distributor. Unless the stainless steel thing is broken I think it should suffice to clean it with carb cleaner. However since I have never taken one apart (this is the only one I have ever worked on) I might be wrong.
@Max I assume the sensor plate is adjusted properly. In this case bridge the pump, don't move the sensor plate but turn the basic seeting screw right until fuel comes out of the ports. Then turn the screw 1/4 to 1/2 rotation back. That you give you a driveable setting, which you then can optimise with warm engine. If you can't get fuel by rotating the setting screw without moving the plate, something ist wrong…
I need HELP. My 1989 Cabriolet wont start. When I turn the key, the motor revs high then stales out. I have changed both fuel pumps , the regular, the relays, spark plugs, oils change timing belt and checked all the fuel lines. Fuel is pumping out but its not making it to the motor. Thinking bout about changing the fuel distributor, but now I cant find the part or what to do next. ANY ADIVCE.
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what did you do to make it flow the fuel?
I connected the fuel pump and then manually pushed the control piston (which is normally connected to the air flow meter) up. If the valves inside the distributor block are not stuck, fuel comes out.
You can short cut the fuel pump and let it run without the engine running, so that you can measure all the pressures. Can you keep the engine running with the accelerator pedal? If not have someone else push a little bit on the air flow sensor so that it get's enough fuel ti run. Sounds like the injection system has stale gas in it and will probably run fine after some running.
If all that does not help you can remove the fuel distributor from the housing and remove VERY carfully the control piston, Then clean everything with acetone. DO NOT take apart the fuel distributor itself, only remove the piston from below. Also you can clean the injector nozzles with a ultrasonic cleaner.
If all that also doesn't help it probably starts to get expensive, but send me a
message, not all is lost yet! 😉
Yep, carb cleaner will do no harm.
@mikethebrick Hi Mike, all devices on the K-Jet have the same effect on all cylinders — except the fuel distributor and the injection valves. So if your engine is mechanically ok, and the ignition system is ok; and the engine is not running on all the cylinders, it's the fuel distributor or the injection valves. You can disconnect the lines going from the distributor to the valves, bridge the fuel pump so that is runs continuously and then push down the air flow meter plate.
@mikethebrick If you see visible differences in the fuel quantity coming out of the 8 ports, your distributor is not working correctly. You can try to clean it as I described below. If there seems to be the same quantity coming out of each port, remove the injection valves from the engine, connect them to the lines (hanging in the air) and see if they are all injecting. If not, putting them into a supersonic cleaner withpetrol and inj sys cleaner can do the trick.
@mikethebrick If they are all injecting, and still your engine is not running on all cylinders, there is a problem with the ignition timing or something mechanical like no compression, engine valves…
@RzXVeRSaTiiLe Don't take the fuel distributor apart. Afaik they have no gasket as the metal parts are mated together with the thin stainless steel plate of the distribution valves in such way in the plant, that they are tight by themselves. You can't do that yourself I was told, and I never tried…
I would treat the distributor with lots of carb cleaner, and mount new injection valves. Also check all the pressures to be sure it's not simply a pressure issue.
@TradingCarz Do not take the fuel distributor itself apart. You can use standard carb cleaner.Other than that? Be careful and do not break anything 😉
bit of a sloppy way of testing it, hope you didnt have an ignition source near by 😉 sorry for being a dick lol
Old post, but that is not completely correct, I've rebuilt them fully, I used an aerosol copper gasket adhesive sealant when mating the parts back together… it does not always work on the first try, but it can be done with great success.
Well maybe you're lucky sometimes, but it does not sound like a process you could trust. And how long will it last?
Good to hear it works for you! I don't doubt that it can be done with great success, but "it does not always work on first try" does not sound like a process I should recommend to users asking for advice in my channel, therefore I recommend to them to not take apart the distributor. Unless the stainless steel thing is broken I think it should suffice to clean it with carb cleaner. However since I have never taken one apart (this is the only one I have ever worked on) I might be wrong.
What an amature. LOL. 😉
@Max
I assume the sensor plate is adjusted properly. In this case bridge the pump, don't move the sensor plate but turn the basic seeting screw right until fuel comes out of the ports. Then turn the screw 1/4 to 1/2 rotation back. That you give you a driveable setting, which you then can optimise with warm engine. If you can't get fuel by rotating the setting screw without moving the plate, something ist wrong…
wat do i do if the car cuts out wen i rev the car?
the car idle as normal wen i start it, just as soon as i star to rev it cuts out.
i am driving a aVw Jetta MK2 8valve 1.8Cylinder C.L.I
Random question: Do you know if the cis lambda system require the fuel accumulator?
I need HELP. My 1989 Cabriolet wont start. When I turn the key, the motor revs high then stales out. I have changed both fuel pumps , the regular, the relays, spark plugs, oils change timing belt and checked all the fuel lines. Fuel is pumping out but its not making it to the motor. Thinking bout about changing the fuel distributor, but now I cant find the part or what to do next. ANY ADIVCE.